Holy smokes! The picture Eater took to go with my latest "Who Goes There?" column makes Spain Restaurant, a faded relic in Greenwich Village, look vibrant and new. The photographer much have used Klieg lights. Believe me, those banquettes are much more dusty, those painting infinitely more dark in real life.
I go to these forgotten restaurants hoping to be pleasantly surprised with their charm and unsung cuisine. But sometimes restaurants are not talked about because people are just being polite. I don't know where Spain Restaurant gets its seafood, but each piece would nicely double as a doggie's chew toy. Still, that homey little bar is a trip. And, as with the other eateries examined in this series, one feels protected from the nastiness of the outside world once inside the door.