There must be about 1,000 pizzerias in New York City. I've clapped my eyes on a fair share of them. But I don't think I've ever seen one with the particular focus of Sheepshead Bay's Delmar Pizzeria, which has been around since 1957. "Specializing in White Cheese Pizza," proclaims the old sign. White cheese pizza. That's a very particular thing to hang your hat on.
I, of course, had to go in and try said slice after I saw that sign. Well, it must be good, because they were out of white slices. From what I hear, ricotta is spread thinly where the red sauce would be and then topped with mozzarella. And the crust is crisper than your usual Brooklyn pie. I didn't have time to wait for the next pie to come out of the oven, so I went on my way. The revelation of Delmar's white pizza will have to wait for another day.