Delmar Pizzeria Revisited

Last summer, I discovered the Sheepshead Bay oddity Delmar Pizzeria, which, perhaps alone among the city's pizzerias, proudly declares itself as specializing in white pizza.

The joint, founded in 1957, was closed when I first came upon it. The other day, however, I found it open and finally tasted the white slice. It was more expensive than a regular slice by 75 cents, costing $3.25. Though I'm not a big white pizza fan, I'd say it was worth it. The flavors were layered and very subtle. There was art there.

Strangely enough, in the 1957 Delmar menu framed on the wall, there is no mention of white pizza. (I guess the specialty came later.) But, back then, for my $3.25, I could have purchased two entire cheese pizzas, and had a quarter to spare. I find it amusing that an anchovy pizza cost $1.50, but a pie with half anchovies was $1.70. So you actually paid more for less anchovies.

Notice, too, the spelling of the place back then: Del-Mar, as in "of the sea," not Delmar. This is doubtless a reference to the restaurants one-time prowess with seafood. All the Friday through Sunday specials had to do with shrimp, calamari, clams and lobster.