Lost City Asks "Who Goes to Frankie & Johnnie's?"

It's really hard for me to forgive Frankie & Johnnie's for what they did to the great old second floor bar. But if it helped keep the old Times Square steakhouse open, I guess the desecration can be understood. And I'd rather eat here more than just about any other place in the area before seeing a Broadway show. Here's my "Who Goes There?" column:

Who Goes There? Frankie & Johnnie's Steakhouse

After Sardi's, Frankie & Johnnie's ranks as the oldest surviving eatery in the Theatre District. It was founded in 1926 and has seen a lot of flops and hits, and the actors who starred in them. It was a speakeasy in its early years, according to lore. A few years ago, the place was almost lost to the city when the Shuberts, who own the property, began tearing down every building around it in hopes of erecting a hotel on the plot. But the economy tanked before the theatre owners could get to Frankie's, and the steakhouse won a last-minute reprieve. (Ironically, the Shubert execs loved Frankie's. They often ate and held meetings at the restaurant. Never trust a landlord.)

Despite having dodged the wrecking ball, the owners of Frankie's nonetheless found a way to wreck the joint themselves. Soon after being saved, they ripped out the old hidden bar upstairs—a wonderful, ramshackle little getaway if you knew how to find it, where Bugsy Siegel and Meyer Lanskey once drank alongside John O'Hara and Frank Sinatra, and Jason Robards Jr. pilloried Richard Nixon to his face. They then installed a faceless, blah bar on the ground floor, and scrubbed up and widened the entrance to the old staircase that winds it way up to the tidy, second-floor dining area.

These renovations were mistakes, and noticeably decreased the seedy charm of the place. Still, Frankie & Johnnie's retains more charm than most. Tucked away 15 feet above Eighth Avenue, its small windows shaded, it still feels like a speakeasy, the most Runyonesque of Times Square eateries. The bill of fare remains avowedly old school. "I haven't seen calves liver on a menu in years!" said my brother during a recent dinner. (He doesn't get to many New York steakhouses.) He could have said the same about the creamed spinach, clams casino, mushroom caps or any number of long-standing F&J specialties.

The steaks here aren't the best in New York, but they're not the worst. I always have the petit filet mignon and I always enjoy it. And the creamed spinach rocks. So do the ridiculous number (eight) of potato side dishes. If you can't find a potato preparation you like here, you just don't like potatoes. Eating ain't cheap. Meat entrees start in the 20s and head up to the 50s. And you can't escape by ordering pasta. Somehow, penne with chicken merits a $26 pricetag.

There was a Frankie and a Johnnie at one time. Ownership passed down through the Johnnie line until waiter Peter Chimos bought the joint in 1985. Some of the present waiters are as old as Chimos. The hands of mine shook as he placed down my steak, but he was otherwise polite and attentive. He told me that the restaurant's many regulars stretch well beyond the Theatre District, or New York, or even the tri-state area. There are loyalists in every state, and when they come to New York, this is where they eat. And, of course, they still get their share of stage celebrities and politicians.

The Shuberts still own the building. Don't get me wrong, but I hope the economy doesn't improve too much. 

—Brooks of Sheffield

New Frankie & Johnnie's Ground-Floor Bar Still Work in Progress

I thought, based on a recent visit to Times Square, that the old steakhouse Frankie & Johnnie's new ground-floor bar would be open for business by now. But no. Workman are still touching up the outside. The doors are in now, though, one of them bearing the joint's name.

Frankie & Johnnie's New Ground Floor Bar to Open Next Week

As reported in January, legendary Times Square steakhouse, and former speakeasy, Frankie & Johnnie's decided to ashcan its tiny, secretive and historic second-floor bar in favor of a "clean and dull" alternative, as well as plans for a ground-floor bar in what used to be a side room of the former Barrymore's place. Barrymore's used to sit next door to F&J's before a bunch of greedy clods decided to shut it down in favor of building a high-rise hotel that was never built.

While the renovation is a regrettable decision on F&J's part, there is the slim possibility that the new downstairs bar may be slightly awesome.

I walked by yesterday and construction was well-advanced. A workman told me the bar would be open for business in "a week." It will be a miniscule place, barely a coatroom. Literally a hole in the wall. But it's snugness, and its location right on the lip of the sidewalk, may make it kinda cool. A few Broadway theatres stand right across the street. I could see dashing into the bar during intermission for a refresher. And perhaps no bar in the area will have a better view of the passing parade. The place looks promising.

Frankie & Johnnie's Renovating, Expanding

Remember a year or so ago, when it seemed the old speakeasy-steakhouse Frankie & Johnnie's was done for, to be bulldozed to make way for a hotel? Well, the joint not only survived that scare—the recession deep-sixed the tower—but now it's renovating and expanding.

Read more »

Frankie & Johnny's Neighbors Destroyed for Nothing

The New York Times has printed a nice tribute to Frankie & Johnnie's, the Times Square steakhouse and former speakeasy that recently survived a hit on its life.

It's a lovely read. But it also contains a shocking bit of news. Frankie & Johnnie's landlord is the Shubert Organization. For years before Frankie & Johnnie's neighboring restaurants—Barrymore's, Sam's, Puleo's, all great theatre folk hangouts—were torn down, the public could learn little about the plans for the area. That a tower was going up on Eighth between 45th and 46th we knew. Beyond that, nothing. The Shuberts were mum. Then, earlier this year, we learned that Frankie & Johnnie's would survive the wrecking ball and had been given a new lease. Again, there was no explanation from the mighty Shuberts.

It took the Times to dig the facts out:

The deal that would have demolished its four-story structure to make way for a block-long office tower on Eighth Avenue between 45th and 46th Streets fell through. The restaurant still stands, next to a yawning empty lot whose former occupants were not as lucky.

Robert E. Wankel, co-chief executive officer of the Shubert Organization, which is Frankie & Johnnie’s landlord and also owns 17 Broadway theaters, told me: “Frankie & Johnnie’s will survive. The office building didn’t.”

So Barrymore's, Sam's and the others—they bit the dust for nothing. Such wanton carelessness, such disregard for the area's history, the needs of its theatre professionals (the ruined restaurants were favorites of working-class theatre types). And not even destroyed for the sake of a new shiny tower, but the promise of a tower, which will now never be. Instead we get a big dirt hole in the middle of the theatre district.

And what kills me is they would have torn down 80-year-old Frankie & Johnnie's, too, if the Boom had lasted just a few months more.

Frankie and Johnnie's Gets a Reprieve

This is the week of reprieves.

First comes news that the UWS's Emerald Inn has gotten an extension on its lease. Now we hear that Frankie and Johnnie's Steakhouse WILL NOT die at the end of this month. Reports a reader: "the owner of Frankie & Johnny's tells us that they have renegotiated the lease on the 46th Street branch and will remain open for at least the next two years." Since the reader works for Zagat, I'd say this is a trustworthy source.

It seems this sour economy, that kills so many businesses, also saves some—the stalwarts that have been around a while and have always done solid trade. Landlords see that, in tough times, standbys are safer bets than whatever may be the Latest Thing Willing to Pay High Rent. If only the landlord of P&G Cafe had seen similar sense. (Maybe he still will!)

So, Hurrah for Frankie and Johnnie's! Hurrah for us! Hurrah for the great old Town!

Lost City's Guide to Times Square

Fairly often now, I get e-mails from out-of-town readers of Lost City who are planning on visiting NYC and want to know what classic Gotham spots they should visit. Aside from the Empire State and Grand Central and the other hugely obvious destinations, I mean. So, rather than continuing to answer these queries piecemeal (though I'll continue to do that if people ask), I've decided to tackle the matter neighborhood by neighborhood, starting with this item on Times Square. I figure, anything that helps these old businesses stay afloat is for the good, so might as well direct as much traffic thataway as possible.

I'm starting with Times Square for a few reasons. One, it's where every tourist ends up eventually, so a guide to it will be of the most use. Two, there's precious little of Old New York left there, and, as I'm freaking lazy, it will be an easy thing to write up.

Also, keep in mind: this is not meant to be an ideal of complete-ism. It's a smattering, a selection, a best-of. Also, I'm focusing on things that are still there; not "This is where this was," or "On this spot once stood." Living history, not dead history. Contrary to some ideas people have of this blog, Lost City is not about nostalgia (not entirely, anyway); it's about old, but living and breathing places that ought to be celebrated and preserved.

So, here we go.

BROADWAY THEATRES: Even if you don't like theatre, go to a Broadway show. This collection of 30-odd old theatres has no architectural equivalent in the United States. They are gorgeous buildings, inside and out. The New Amsterdam's interior has the most opulent glitz for your buck (Don't miss the former gentlemen's lounge downstairs, with its murals and circular bar). The Hirschfeld is exotic, the Booth intimate and the Shubert's a beaut. And if you're really looking for the oldest everything, go to the ornate Lyceum, built in 1903 and the oldest continually operating Broadway theatre.

AMC EMPIRE 25 CINEPLEX: This 42nd Street movie house used to be the Eltinge Theatre, named after Julian Eltinge, the greatest female impersonator of the early 20th Century. The old ceiling murals are still there.

THE NEW YORK TIMES BUILDING: This grand structure on 43rd Street is where the paper did business for most of the 20th century. A great building no matter who occupies it next.

THE PARAMOUNT BUILDING: An Art Deco gem on 7th Avenue and 43rd, and one of the oldest surviving buildings in an area now littered with colorless glass boxes. Frank Sinatra wowed them here. The mountain-like structure has a beautiful, illuminated, four-sided clock which chimes "Give My Regards to Broadway" every night at 7:45. Take a tour of the lovely lobby for an idea of the vibrant life that office building lobbies could once generate.

THE FORMER KNICKERBOCKER HOTEL: This 16-story Beaux-Arts building at the corner of Broadway and 42nd Street was the place to stay in the early 20th century. Caruso sang from the balcony to the crowds below. It's also the only building at the Crossroads of the World that still looks like the Times Square of old.

FRANKIE & JOHNNIE'S STEAKHOUSE: But hurry! This second-story former Speakeasy on W. 46th Street will shut down for good at the end of January. As far as I know, it's the second oldest restaurant in the area.

SARDI'S: This is the oldest. I know: it's cliche, it's musty, it's old hat. It's also history and splendid and romantic and you'll be treated well and get some decent food. You won't see any theatre stars; but plenty of past celebrities are in frames on the walls.

SMITH'S BAR AND GRILL: A bar, a grill and a sign to remind you of the Times Square of the 1950s. Nothing too special inside. And nothing too fancy. Which makes it great.

CAFE EDISON: An affordable and classic diner inside the Edison Hotel on 47th Street. A popular theatre hangout for stage pros who are more interested in eating than being seen. Try the matzo ball soup. The Rum House, a bar next door that is also part of the hotel, is worth a look too.

JIMMY'S CORNER: The best bar in Times Square, and the last saloon that speaks of the area's rich past. It's a shotgun space owned by Jimmy Glenn, a former boxing trainer, and full of easy-going charm, good music, cheap beer and waitresses in short skirts.

NOTE: I've limited this survey to the area above 42nd between Eighth and Sixth Avenues. Attractions to the south, west and east will be covered in future entries on Hell's Kitchen, Midtown and the Garment District.

Frankie and Johnnie's Going Strong as End Nears

A friend was good enough to treat me to dinner at Frankie & Johnnie's Steakhouse on 45th Street the other night, giving me a chance to enjoy the former speakeasy and Theatre District staple before the Death March of Progress yanks it down.

I was surprised to find the place thronged, packed to the gills with noisy, happy diners. According to my friend, it's always that busy. We sat in a corner banquette with a full view of the actions, under a photograph of Robert Preston dining with Sandy Dennis (!) at the eatery back in the 1960s. Tables and chairs are packed tightly together in the small room and the seasoned waiters swan in and around the narrow spaces between with ease. We were mothered over by a veteran waiter whose mindful, decorous manner made us feel quite cared for. We both ordered the Filet Mignon with Mushroom Cap, along with sides of garlic mashed potatoes and spinach. I'm not much of a steak fan, so I was surprised how happy the entree made me. It was a beautiful piece of meat from start to finish, tender and flavorful. The mashes potatoes were a dream. We downed it with a superb half-bottle of 2004 Grgich Cabernet Sauvignon.



It's quite a cozy room and it's sad to think it will be gone by January (according to our waiter). It still has a secret, sequestered air to it, and the vista looking through the blinds down on the busy Broadway side street of W. 45th Street is a bird's-eye close-up you can't enjoy anywhere else. The spot shows its age, with the stairs up to the restaurant, and another flight up to the bathrooms, visibly slanting and sloping at curious angles.

The trip up to the bathroom is worth a visit. I wondered if this stairwell once served as an escape route to a secret room or passage when 1920s guests were surprised by unwelcome visits from the police. There is also an old Daily News clipping hung next to the men's room that is worth a perusal. It concerns an 1963 encounter between Jason Robards and Richard M. Nixon in the F&J bar. A drunk Robards was singing old Irish tunes when he spied Nixon at the bar with some government men and let go with "Trick Dick! What the hell are you doing here?" He continued: "You were a lousy football coach. You were a lousy Vice-President, and you'll never be President." Nixon tried to laugh off the encounter by offering to pay for a round for the room. He put $20 on the bar, but kept his arm around the bill. Sure enough, when he left, he surreptitiously repocketed the $20, therefore stiffing Frankie & Johnnie's.

Bet Robards thought of that night often when filming "All the President's Men."