How to Eat Old School

The folks at Eater, who like to map everything edible in the City, ask my to pick out of selection of old guard dishes from New York City's most venerable restaurants. Mutton Chops at Keen's, Pastrami on Rye at Katz's, that sort of thing. Such a task is a pleasure for me, so I was happy to do it. Thanks to Zachary Feldman for putting the post together. Here's the intro. You'll have to jump to Eater to read the rest, because the layout is too complex for me to copy here.

What are the makings of an iconic dish? While the critics and blogs dole out "least favorite food trend" memes annually, these stalwarts—provided, with commentary, by the erudite Brooks of Sheffield of our Who Goes There? column and the erstwhile Lost City—have stood the test of time to help define and inspire the city's ever-changing culinary landscape. Noteworthy dishes that offer something beyond the pizza, cupcakes, burgers, and fried chicken that seem to have strong-armed the market, you won't find this food on a truck anytime soon.- Zachary Feldman

Frank "The Legend Buster" Bruni Gives Peter Luger a Swift Kick

Frank Bruni, who sees himself not just as the New York Times restaurant reviewer, but as NYC's top chop cop, stuck on his badge today and wrote a 1,000-word police report on Peter Luger, the mother of all New York steak houses out in Brooklyn.

Bruni did the same thing with Katz's a few months back, paying a visit on the deli institution to pay respect, but also to lodge complaints and offer advice on how things might be done better under the Bruni Watch. This time around, he rescinded one of Luger's stars as punishment for gloating, coasting, harsh illumination and harsh service. "Gloating? Coasting? Gonna have to write you up for that, missy!," said Bruni, hoisting a hip boot on the back fender to write down the license plate. Message: Don't mess with the Bruni!

Now, I understand from my friends at Eater.com and other venerable sources that Luger is not what it was and needed a swift kick in the pants. I don't dispute it. But surely this does not mean taking glee in the pain the a negative review from Bruni can inflict. Every classic restaurant and bar in the city is on shaky ground in this market. No one is safe, not even Katz's and Luger, so let's not go around casually aiming bazookas at them for fun and spite.

My reaction to the Luger review will be the same one I had to the Katz's review: I'm going to dine there as soon as possible.