Lost City: Troy, NY, Edition: Pork Store Closes

Above is one of the last pictures taken of Troy, New York's famous Troy Pork Store open for business. It was taken in July. I've learned recently that the century-old shop closed its doors in early August without explanation. Nobody knows why because the owners aren't saying, but people point to the rising cost of meat and energy. It was owned since 2004 by former Price Chopper butchers Carmen Amedio and John Mesko.

The Troy Pork Store was founded in 1918 by Charles Komerz. It made its own sausage, pepperoni, liverwurst, salami—anything you could think of—and served local families and businesses, as well as those throughout the Capital District. But its greatest fame came, perhaps, from creating the tiny hot dogs distinctive to the Troy-Albany area. The mini-dogs were bought and sold by classic local restaurants such as the nearby Famous Lunch, which always bought its dogs from the Troy Pork Store. Don't know where they're going to get them now.

What's happening in New York City is happening everywhere, folks. Our heritage, our individualism, our craftmanship are getting wiped out by corporate chains, feckless capitalism, and the governments that support them. Goodbye Troy Pork Shop, Hello Price Chopper!

Update on the South End Tavern

I have readers in Troy, NY. Who knew? Or at least among former Troy natives. Mike de Seve wrote in recently about my recent Troy post, particularly the one about the age-old South Side Tavern (aka Marty Burke's) which transfixed me so. Turns out I had reason to be transfixed. The joint is a fascinating place. Read:

My grandmother was one of the ladies the sign was made for - an Irish girl, daughter of the contractor that did most of the major industrial building in the city, icluding the famed Burden Water Wheel, the world's largest I believe. They were the Behan family, and I grew up as the last of 6 generations that lived in the very same house, 334 4th, which Burden Avenue becomes as you travel north.

My favorite story of hers about Marty Burke's was that, in the ladies room, there apparently was a mural of the Garden of Eden, including a nude Adam. Adam sported an actual brass fig leaf for modesty—which was secretly tied to a string that rang a bell when a lady was curious enough to lift it. This was a signal to the band to strike up a fanfare for her as soon as she stepped out.

As a kid in the '60's -'70's I was raised on Marty Burke's fried codfish Fridays-only special (the old Catholic rule—no meat on Fridays). Still a benchmark of strong-flavored fish fry, a tradition carried on when cod is in season by Ted's Fish Fry, the area's most beloved chain of 3 stores. The other great thing about Marty Burke's is that the majority of the 8-ounce beer glasses are so old their glass is still communion-wafer thin. Very curious, feels nice in the hand.

I feel like holding one of those beer glasses right now.