Delmar Pizzeria Revisited

Last summer, I discovered the Sheepshead Bay oddity Delmar Pizzeria, which, perhaps alone among the city's pizzerias, proudly declares itself as specializing in white pizza.

The joint, founded in 1957, was closed when I first came upon it. The other day, however, I found it open and finally tasted the white slice. It was more expensive than a regular slice by 75 cents, costing $3.25. Though I'm not a big white pizza fan, I'd say it was worth it. The flavors were layered and very subtle. There was art there.

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The White Cheese Pizza Specialists

There must be about 1,000 pizzerias in New York City. I've clapped my eyes on a fair share of them. But I don't think I've ever seen one with the particular focus of Sheepshead Bay's Delmar Pizzeria, which has been around since 1957. "Specializing in White Cheese Pizza," proclaims the old sign. White cheese pizza. That's a very particular thing to hang your hat on.

I, of course, had to go in and try said slice after I saw that sign. Well, it must be good, because they were out of white slices. From what I hear, ricotta is spread thinly where the red sauce would be and then topped with mozzarella. And the crust is crisper than your usual Brooklyn pie. I didn't have time to wait for the next pie to come out of the oven, so I went on my way. The revelation of Delmar's white pizza will have to wait for another day.