The Pride of Eagle Provisions

One of the most outlandish proud—and just plain big–signs in all the five boroughs belongs to Eagle Provisions of the South Slope, "Manufacturer of the World's Finest Kielbasy and Polish Provisions." The World's finest. That means every better than the stuff back in old Poland even.

It's been a goal for some time to try that finest of all Kielbasy, and recently I finally did. I walked through the vainglorious storefront, past the many potted plants at the front, through an aisle lined with obscure Polish imports, to the deli counter at the back, where breaded chicken cutlets, homemade potato pancakes and many sorts of meats are available, and told the unsmiling counter woman "One pound of Kielbasy." At a few bucks a pound, how could I lose?

Is it the world's best? Impossible to say. But it's damn good and it went quick. The store (which honors not America's Eagle, but Poland's) has been around since the 1930s. People go there for the homemade stuff and the massive domestic and imported beer selection. They don't go for the sad produce section, the high prices and the borderline rude service. This last part doesn't bother me that much. Sorry to traffic in national stereotypes, but, after spending many years in the City, and patronized every sort of ethnic establishment, one thing I've come not to expect from Polish establishments is charm and friendliness. Might as well expect a cat to pitch in with the housework.

Two Pizzerias on Fifth

For the Avenue that wears its age with grace and not a lot of show, I give the prize to Fifth Avenue in Brooklyn, from Boerum Hill on down through Park Slope to Windsor Terrace.

There are very old bars on this strip that do not get a lot of play in the papers—places like O'Connor's, Smith's, Jackie's Fifth Amendment and Smolen Bar & Grill. Likewise, you'll find a lot of retail stores and diners which are quietly marking their decades, such as Eagle Provisions.

Here are a couple of long-serving slice joints which sit a few blocks from each other: Luigi's (since 21st), which was founded in 1973; and Lenny's (near 17th), which dates back from the 1950s. You can see what Lenny looked like it you walk on to the back. There's an oil portrait of the man in a suit, complete with boutonniere.