For years after the legendary French restaurant La Cote Basque went out of business, the small, cursive neon sign for the eatery remained on the side wall of 55th Street space, reminded all passersby of what was lost. It stayed there during the life of Brasserie La Côte Basque, the restaurant's descendant. But there appears to be no room for the memory of the La Cote Basque of Henri Soule and Truman Capote fame in the Benoit of Alain Ducasse. The sign has finally come down and has been replace by a Benoit sign. I hear Benoit is an excellent restaurant. Still, sigh.