Gene's, on W. 11th Street, is, for me, the definition of the local Village restaurant, the side street place that sits in the middle a quiet block and is basically known and patronized by people in a few-block radius. Cozy, familial, reassuring. And a near extinct breed. I've decided not to hold against it the unbearable sandy mussels I have there a few years back.
Here the link to the Eater piece.