The Pen and Pencil was a steakhouse that formerly held a place of honor on Manhattan's former Steak Row (E. 45th between Lex and 1st), and in the hearts of healthy newspapermen and ad men everywhere. It was run by John C. Bruno, the "Mayor of Steak Row." In 1952, Bruno shared his recipe for Welsh Rarebit with the New York Times:
Welsh Rarebit a la Pen and Pencil
1 T. butter
3/4 lb. aged cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 cup consumme
3 oz. ale
1. Place butter in shallow individual earthenware baking dish and set in a hot place (on flame pad over low heat) to heat and brown the butter.
2. Heat cheese with consumme in a small frying pan, stirring constantly until smooth. Add mustard, paprika and Worcestershire to taste.
3. Add ale and cook, stirring until smooth and hot, or about one minute.
4. Put a piece of hot toast in the buttered baking dish and pour the hot rabbit over it. Serve immediately. The dish must be so hot that the mixture sizzles in it for a minute.